The Pilgrim’s Life: Part One

You must see Le Puy en Velay - a Medieval Treasure on the Pilgrim's Route to Compostella - Deep ...

Le Puy

 

Digul podului greșit Sancţiune autobus pamplona saint jean pied de port Vorbi guvern Persoană ... I thought that I would introduce readers to the Pilgrim Life. Here is part one:

Qu'est ce qu'un pélerin

Qu'est ce qu'un pélerinQu'est ce qu'un pélerin

 

¡ACTORES DE EUROPA! : Le Pèlerin

A Pilgrim’s Life

¡ACTORES DE EUROPA! : Le Pèlerin

Pilgrims can be anybody. They come from all occupations. Judges; retired Naval Officers; mad French mathematicians; flying Dutchmen; crazy Germans; and others. Pilgrims show up en masse at Pilgrim starting places like Vezelay France or St Jean Pied de Port. Pilgrims are not allowed to swear; they are not allowed to have money, although most of them arrive via first class air or high-speed trains. No, no, no. Pilgrims can only suffer.

Because Pilgrims have no money, they have no alarm clocks with them. No matter, as most Pilgrim hostels are beside churches. And churches have church bells that go off at 6 am every morning. Precise. It is God’s clock, so they must be. The first time I experienced this it was frightening. You see, I had broken the second and third major Pilgrim rule in that I was having fun the night before at a singsong with some wine. You see, Pilgrims are not allowed to have fun (2nd rule) nor are they allowed to drink (3rd rule). No, Pilgrims are only allowed to suffer. So, you can imagine how distraught I was when those bells went off. I jumped out of bed and thought my head was exploding. Alas it was only the bells and not my head. Then again, a severe red wine hangover would fit right in with the Pilgrim’s code of conduct…major pain.

At that moment all the Pilgrims have one thing on their mind…toilet. And you thought those walking sticks were for walking. No, no, no. They are for fending off the other pilgrims while running to the toilet to be the first one in there.

Then the Pilgrim goes and has breakfast. Gruel because the 4 the rule of a Pilgrim is that you cannot enjoy food. You must suffer so our gruel has the texture and look of Metamucil, or…well, you get the disgusting picture. After gruel and cold stale coffee, the Pilgrim has a choice. He can start his daily walking grind or he / she can attend Pilgrim classes. There is: “How to be a Pilgrim 101;” Lessons in Self Flagellation;” The Pilgrim’s Handshake” and of course one of my favourites in “How to meet and greet other Pilgrims – the secret code word.” And for this one time only I am going to tell you what it is:” Buen Compestele.” But if you forget it, you can always say: “Pass the Pasta.” That will work as well. Which reminds me of the Pilgrim cookbook – an absolute must for the proper, discerning Pilgrim – “100 ways to cook pasta” also known as, and I love this part, “Pasta and the Pilgrim’s Life.” I know, I know, a real classic best seller.

So, what does a Pilgrim wear. Anything really. Modern or traditional. The traditional Pilgrims have those earth tone-coloured robes made of homespun wool. Itchy as hell…ooops sorry for swearing…They have these long hemp belts for a tight- or loose-fitting fit. Now you never want to be behind one of these pilgrims as they tend to roll up the hems to their waist as they are going up a steep hill such that…like a true Scott…their bare asses are staring right back at you. Not a pretty site. Oh, and those long hemp belts? Well, one tine I saw one of these Pilgrims cut a small piece of hemp and then roll it up in paper and smoke it. Bad, sacrilegious, blasphemy and a cardinal rule of the Pilgrim.  You must…. you must pass it around.

Off the Pilgrims go en masse: quickly, silently, aggressively with their tick, tick, tick walking sticks. Of course, in the minds of all the Pilgrims is to be the first Pilgrim at the first stop in order to get the best accommodations, and in that best of brotherly love and Pilgrim spirit…. screw you buddy, I am the first to go. So, in that raptured state of mind and spirit we fly away pumped and focused.

Tomorrow? Part Two

Day 8: Pontevedra to Caldea a Reis.

Almost there. But another hot day. Only mid 90s today. Little wind. 🥵 Hot, hot. And hundreds of pilgrims. Seems that the three Portuguese Caminos merge at our last stop. So all of the Pilgrims are together for the last hike into Santiago.

On hot days like we are experiencing something like this tree tunnel is a welcome relief.

Only problem is that the last Kilometer to the Albergue in this heat is the longest you will ever experience.

Come to Spain they said.

Do the Camino they said.

In this heat they said.

Ok I said. And who are they anyway, I said. Whew.

But the beer is great. Estella. Met many today. Germans, Americans, Ukrainian, Irish, a couple from New York. No political bull shyte just good craic as Gerry would say. Countryside is beautiful. Pontevedra in the morning light was nice. Just like everywhere in the world there is an effing rush hour.

It is such a beautiful country.

Life is good. But hot.

To prove I am really here.

Buen Camino.

Read ya tomorrow.

 

Day 7: Sainan to Rondendale

Short today. Why? It was 38 C here today. All I could think of was getting to our destination without dying of heat stroke. Unbelievable that it is so friggin hot here and it is the 20th of September for ef’s sake.

At the end of a long hot friggin day. The beer here is awesome 😎 👍.

This country is beautiful. The infrastructure here puts Canada to shame. Why!!!

Day 6: Mayo to Saians

Man fishing off the coast near Bonaio Spain.

Great day,bad day. Bad day in that our Google maps was way off. Thinking we only had 20km to do turned out to be 26km. On top of that the temp hit 32 C. I shouldn’t really be doing this in this heat but I feel pretty good all things considered. But when you’re hiking about in this heat all you can think about is the nice cold one awaiting at the end of the day.

Weather has been spectacular. Not a cloud in the sky – but hot and very little breeze. The city of Bonaio was larger than we expected. It took us almost 2 hours to walk out of it. The city is situated at the mouth of a large bay with giant surf, rocky outcrops, many reefs and small islands that would fit right in in Jurassic park.

We were a wee bit off today. Gerry felt worse than me. I think it may have been what we ate last night but we are both feeling better now.

We hit hills as well today. Two major ones and the second one was just before arriving at the Alburgue. Of course. We persevered and made it. Chilling out.

 

Somebody photoshopped a basketball 🏀 in my gut

Read ya tomorrow.

 

Day 5: Guarda to O Mayo Vello

Short day today. As you can see or maybe not the dogs are burning. Knocked off 20 km but did 29 km yesterday. My trusty navigator Gerry the explorer said we had 1 kilometer to go. After one hour and 5 km later I said how far Gerry. Oh 1 kilometer bai. Just around the next bend you,ll see. Really, 30 minutes later. How far Gerry? Oh, it’s just over the next hill bai. Well, we did get to it after about another half hour. Gerry the navigator failed the litmus test but he is a great guy.

Smelly socks bai.

Gorgeous scenery. This Camino has been the best thus far. Reminds me the Nova Scotia coast and the outer parts of Newfoundland. Rugged and rough with the deep blue Atlantic breakers to our left side. Lovely sea breeze to keep the heat at bay. Cloudless blue sky. There is a God and He lives on the Portuguese Camino.

The Glasgow Hotel. Gerry the explorer navigator is fecked I tell ya.

My navigator. I am truely fecked as they say in Ireland. Hey yer trollies in a knot.

Couple we met from Burnaby BC. They are cycling to Santiago.

Read ya tomorrow.