Day Two: Verzim to Marinhos

Got off at about 7am. Sun just came out. Long night but many of the Pilgrims left at 530am. Too early and very dark. You can’t see anything. We waited until it got light out. Gerry and I are definitely the oldest here. By a longshot. Most of the Pilgrims we have met are Germans and are women. Very few men on this Camino. And it is very busy.

One women was from Siberia. Wow. I have never met anyone from Siberia. She was very nice but her walking partner never said a word. His name was Nicholas. Russian roulette. She had a very heavy accent and reminded me of Natasha from the Mad Magazine. I asked her her name and she said: my name is Natasha. Niet I said and ja she said. Seriously. Then there was Jacob, a young software engineer from Munchen and Lia from Dusseldorf.

I wonder why so many women are doing the Camino. Is there a reason? What are they thinking when they walk? Should I quit my job?. Should I drop my boyfriend? Should I get a divorce? Can I get my hair done in the next town? What about my nails? What or why am I doing this? And suffering so much? Meanwhile the men are thinking: will the bar be open at the next Albergue? Will the beer be cold? Any sports on? What? Why?  Only a sexist would say or think stuff like that.

By the way bai, the shadow is with us.

Gerry went in for a swim. Not me. Too many rocks and very 🥶.

It,ll warm yer cockles he said. Only if you can find them I said.

All for now. Read ya tomorrow.

Another great Canadian band that doesn’t get the attention it deserves.

Late today but spotty internet.

Day 1: Porto to Padua de Verzim

We decided to forego the route from the Pilgrim’s office by the Cathedral and opted for the more scenic route along the Douro River to the lighthouse and then north up the coast to Villa Conda. Scenic is a relative term as it was busy with traffic even though we had the bright blue Atlantic Ocean on our left side. On our right was industrial parks, main thoroughfares and lots of traffic. And it was steaming hot out. Hot as a hothouse in a humid muggy Ontario August.

Before I left home I researched the weather for the route. Great temps they said. Mid 20s they said. Great walking weather they said. Well they lied. Since I arrived 4 days ago it has been in the low 30s it was 92 F last night at 2000 (8pm). And who are they anyway. Not a cloud in the sky for my 5th day here.

A few more pics of Porto. There was this street musician playing the Dylan tune Knocking on Heaven,s Door. How appropriate by the Cathedral I thought. Or was this an omen. Yikes.

It was 94F at that moment. Anyway, Porto will soon be a distant memory. Great place.

Clear and hot. Verzim is a tourist resort. Surfing 🌊 centre here for the Portuguese people.

Funny. Nothing open here. Seems that Monday is a day of rest. It was a challenge but Gerry and I found a cafe open. Bock,s beer. Very refreshing. Met a Portuguese man here who has lived in Toronto for 50 years. He spends 6 months in Portugal every year . Nice. Gerry and I put our feet in the ocean. Very cold and dangerous surf. All for now. Read ya tomorrow.

Another great Canadian band.

 

 

 

Porto Day 4

They call this Trajt. It is something akin to University hazing or frosh week they are all university students. They go out across Porto in their Harry Potter like costumes and sing and dance and act to raise money for many causes. They do not get pissed like they do at University in Canada.

Indeed, there is a famous library or book store here in Porto. Legend has it that the Harry Potter author wrote here. I don’t believe it. Don’t know about you but I avoided libraries like the plague when I was a child. I sure as hell am not going to line up for hours to get into one here.

This is another Porto tradition.

Street entertainment. And of course there is:

The nectar of the Camino God. Why do you do the Camino bai?

It’s the 🍻 bai. And the food. And the people and it’s a great way to lose weight bai.

Just to prove I am really here.

Why is my mouth open? Getting ready for another draught of beer. Doh!

A wise Portuguese pilgrim once told me, do not order the largest beer glass you can find bai – like those Canadians do. No, no, no. Order the smallest glass. The beer stays cold that way. So true. I can attest to that.

Cheers

Another Canadian icon. Shania Twain. Haven’t heard from her lately. Mutt Lang dropped her?????WTF over.

 

 

 

Porto: Day 3

Day three in Porto. Almost over the jet lag. One more day of rest and then off I’ll be. This is my fourth Camino. You would think by now I would know better. September is not a good time to do these things. I did Vezelay in 44 C heat. 10 days above 38 C. Not nice. Frances was up in the 30s. Le Puy as well. I think October would be the best month. Europe is hot, hot, hot in the summer months. And that is not with the humidex!

Today it is 32C.

I will be ready to go. I meet my walking buddy tomorrow. He is a good friend from Belfast. The great thing about him is that he has a heavy accent so I can’t understand him most of the time. We did the Camino Frances together. We linked up in Roncesvalles Spain. Great craic over many a cerveza. Met many people. When asked about why are you doing a Camino he would fluff off the high faultin, existential meaning of that with a simple answer: well it’s a great way to lose weight bai. And you know-what? It is.

Went to mass again at 11 am. What a place. Sitting in the pew of history. Centuries old. Beautiful gothic architecture. One can get blown away looking at the marvellous lines of the church. The acoustics are unreal. When the choir sings it is heavenly. I guess that is the point. I am so glad to be a Christian when I hear that music.

Explored Porto some more. Went to the beach and lighthouse.

Legend has it that this delectable heart attack on a plate was invented by a heartbroken Portuguese chef. He left for Paris and worked there for 10 years. He was very homesick so he came up with this artery cruncher of a dish made with all the ingredients from Portugal. He brought it back to Portugal and introduced it to an unsuspecting public. It is very filling.

Neil Young is a world renowned Canadian artist. I personally don’t like his politics. He has lived in the US since 1969, yet comes to Canada with his anti American rhetoric and climate change BS. Just stick to the music and stop pontificating. Lynard Skinner had a great comeback to this song called Sweet Home Alabama.

Porto: Day Two

Porto is an old city. It was thought that the Phoenicians were here as far back as 600 BC. This was followed by the Romans and even the Celts. It has a long and varied history. It was crucial to the Portuguese age of discovery back in the early 1500s. Henry the Navigator, Magellan and the like were instrumental in discovering the world. They held court in India, Macao, the Philippines, Brazil, well just about everywhere. At one time the Pope split the known world between Portugal and Spain. The English and the French ignored such papal bulls-shyte. Thankfully!

Porto managed to escape the 1755 carnage that destroyed Lisbon. Can you imagine a major earthquake followed by a tsunami followed by a great fire coming in on you all at once? Well that happened to Lisbon. Porto was spared. Perhaps they had better prayers at the time.

Today Porto is a bustling city of about 259,000 people. 1.2 million in the greater Porto area. It is predominantly catholic although sectarian in today’s society. The churches are fantastic in their architecture. You can say what you want about Catholicism but it has given the world an abundance of beauty in visual art and spiritual awakening. Porto reflects all of that.

It is a hilly city. The city centre is a UNESCO heritage site and sits in a bowl. You better have strong legs and good cardio if you are going to explore the  place on foot. But your reward is good beer, excellent food, world renowned wine, Madeira and Port.

The place is full of tourists. Mainly old farts like me. In that vein you hear ambulances going by, sirens a blazing all day long. Maybe it’s the hills, perhaps the wine, probably the beer. Whatever but you’ll probably check out with a smile on your face.

Went for a long walk. The forecast was for low 70s. They lied. 94 right now. 96 tomorrow. Shyte. Everytime I do a Camino it is hot 🔥 hot hot 🥵. Always mid September. Crowded with people here. Lots of pilgrims. I think I counted 30 today. Leave Monday. One more day to get my legs.

Another Canadian band with a one hit wonder.