Day 38: Saint Severs to Hagetmau

Today,s walk is dedicated to Ruth. With the support of her husband Ruth has been fighting cancer for a very long time. She has great courage to carry on with this journey.

Left Saint Severs at 0645am. Cool and very humid. Found a Boulanger in the square that was open so I stopped and bought two danishes. Warm, delicious.

Landscape has changed dramatically. From a flat monotonous, monochromatic terrain that was covered in sand – hot,dusty and full of smidgens – to one that is hilly, lush and variable. Gone is the scrub brush. Back to rolling hills, corn fields, meadows and dark green forests. The odd farmhouse breaks the landscape and the usual cacaphony of dogs breaks the morning silence as our presence is smelt and detected by these dogs a mile away.I have to laugh as the residents get their morning wakeup call whenever we pass by. I love to yelp and play with these dogs but then again, there is usually a very high fence separating us.

Why attack dogs? I do n,t know but seeing a lapso apso barking away somehow doesn,t cut it as a guard dog.

A very old eglise.

Saint Giron’s  Crypt-12th Century. Doesn’t look a day over 500 years I think!

My shoes are starting to fall apart. Only a few days left. Hope they can last.

Walking alone today. Pretty fast pace. Covered 16 kilometers in just over 3 hours. Hagetmau is more of a modern town compared to Saint Severs,which is  medieval going back to the stones throw in time.

Jacobin Cloister

Buildings are taking on more and more of a Spanish motife. Terra cota roofs, stucco, iron wrought railings. In fact the square in Hagetmau where I am currently sitting reminds me of old town San Diego rather than some French style city in North America such as Quebec City. I know we are getting closer to Basque country. Will not be long now.

Dutch women returned last night. Just as I was playing Celebration by Kool and the Gang, they walked through the door. They seemed to be more relaxed today than a few days ago. The older one actually smiled and laughed at one of my stupid jokes. Lightening up perhaps? Maybe it is the Camino spirit. One can only hope.


This is what I would call a perfect song. Great lyrics, melody. It has the whole range of musical instruments such as strings, acoustic and electric guitars, piano and saxophone. Came out around 1976 and is still great: