Tag: Lourdes

27 August: Lourdes to Roncesvalles Spain

What a day. No sleep last night. Tossed and turned all night. Probably worried about my train connection after my Dutch fiasco. No worries though as I made it fine. Except for the weather. Believe it or not it is 8 C here in Roncesvalles, high winds and pouring rain. In fact it has been raining now for 4 days. And it is a hard rain, and wet and cold.

“Come to Spain” they said.

“You will love it” they said.

“ I came, I saw and I am drenched….” I said.

I feel like this guy.

Lourdes was very nice. Beautiful in fact. But they do have homeless there. But they are more refined I think. Take this guy. He was hanging outside the train station. He was listening to some tunes on his iPhone and doing yoga. He was prepping himself before heading out to rip people off. Oh well.


The trip down from Lourdes was uneventful. When the sun did shine the countryside was beautiful. Green and very lush. Small towns and villages were nestled among the rolling hills of the Pyrenees. A beautiful part of  France. But somewhat affluent. In other areas of France buildings and houses appear dirty, old and tired. But not here. Clean and refined with a Spanish influence. This is also Basque country. Fiercely independent. Freedom signs dot the landscape on the Spanish side of the Pyrenees.

I arrived safely in Roncesvalles but very tired. I am sitting  in a cafe (bar) writing this. Spanish beer is very sweet. But good. I haven’t met a beer yet that wasn,t. And I need the carbs. That is my excuse anyway.

I bet you didn’t know that Roncesvalles has a storied past. When Charlemaigne came from Aachen Germany to kick moorish butt in Spain he promised the locals in Pamplona that he wouldn,t damage the ramparts. He lied. So the Spanish residents were angry and they attacked Charlamaigne,s rearguard when he was leaving Spain via the Ronceau pass. The locals attacked him at Roncesvalles. Charlies’s fav general, Roland, was killed and he is buried here. Check out the song of Roland. It is famous. Now all of this occurred in 778 ad. Interesting? You bet.

So I am here now with 280 other pilgrims. I am not sure I am going to like this. Too many people. And we all emit that green hueish aura that comes with being a pilgrim. Yes we stink. But when everyone stinks nobody stinks. Ah, the life of a pilgrim. Try it and come to Spain….I said.

Read ya tomorrow.

Shakeyjay is out.

 

 

 

 

Netherland to Lourdes: Sat 26 Aug 23

Great visit to my late wife,s home. Saw my extended family in Hoensbroek, which is in the south of the Netherlands. Only niece and nephews still alive. The wife of my brother in law died 6 May at 84 then he died 2 days later 08 May at 86 and then my other brother in law died 1 month later in Amsterdam. Holy cow. Damn. Sorry I am not supposed to swear (read my pilgrim post part one and two)

Ik spent 4 days there then took the train to Lourdes. All my fears came to past as the first train was cancelled. I could not find the swear words to say in dutch so I found some choice English words to say. A cab driver offered to take me to Maastricht for 85 euros but I told him no way Jose (he was spanish I think). I found a bus to take me from Heerlen to Maastricht but the damage had been done. All of my connections were kaput (German not Dutch) but a nice lady from Liege (lauk in Dutch) helped me so I said “danku wel” and she said “your welcome.” Whoa. Do I look like a stupid Canadian I thought. Perhaps my sask roughriders hat gave me away.

I made it through the madness of Paris at Montparness Station with thousands of mes amis de Francais. The French were not protesting today for a one hour work week with a 30 minute lunch break and two 15 minute coffee breaks. Mon dieu I thought. So with one hand covering my wallet, another over my documents and my other two hands holding on for dear sacre blue – don,t worry, i am a pilgrim after all – life I made it to my platform. I boarded the train vitesse, tres vitesse, and rocketed south to Lourdes at 310 kilometers per hour. I kid you not. We in Canada may think we are sooo advanced but we are not. They are so civilized here that they still smoke on the terraces and they actually….talk.

Mon dieu. My french gets better. Pardon, je suis un pellerin after all.

Now in Lourdes. I wäs here 5 years ago after my French walk – the way of Vezelay. Lourdes is a beautiful place in the French side of the Pyrenees. It is the site of the marion apparitions to St Bernadette de Soubirous – non not the auto monsieur. Mary appeared to Bernadette 18 times in 1858. Every day since 1858 they have an evening procession to honour the Blessed Virgin and praise Jesus by honouring his mother – just as we should always honour our own mothers. It is a site to  behold. I will go there tonight. It is the number one pilgrimage site for Catholics after the Vatican. After the apparitions Mary asked that a chapel be built on the site. Here is that chapel.

You may not believe. Some protestants say it is demonic. But what is demonic about love. I dont mean to pontificate. As Saint Thomas Aquinas said: “ if you believe in God no explanation is required. If you don’t believe in God no explanation would suffice.” It is a matter of faith and it is a relationship that is personal. I am just glad and happy that I can come here. There are thousands here living for hope. What is wrong with that in this crazy world we live in.

Here is where I am staying.

Top floor, second from the right. I stayed here 5 years ago. Basic but clean. 35 euros with breakfast although the baguette is like biting into concrete. Mon dieu. Black coffee and orange juice. Prices here are great compared to Victoriá.

But who would have frites in a sandwich?

Tomorrow I leave for Roncesvalles, Navarra Spain and the start of my long walk and Pilgrimage. Did you know that there is a sector in Toronto named  Roncesvalles? Well there is and it is the Ukrainian part of that city.

I apologize in advance for any typos as I am forced to use an Ipad. I use whatever grammar is easiest so you may see me use an apostrophe instead of the possessive. I am a pilgrim so I must say sorry. In advance. I will not swear and I must suffer – but starting Monday. Tonight I party and stay away from gruel.

Have fun at the Lions game.

Read ya later.

 

 

 

 

 

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