You just can’t get away from it. Check out the flag!!! Even at Camino ground zero a political statement has to be made. This place is supposed to be sacred non partisan ground. Spiritual enlightenment not political malfeasance. Oh well.
The last two days were really uneventful. Walking through the burbs. Excited to finish? You bet. Did I have an “ah hah” moment of truth? Yes but not in the way you might think. Got into Santiago around noon, booked into our regular place where I stayed in 2023, went to collect our Compostela then chilled out. Walked around the plaza a bit gawking at the thousands of people here.
Thousands.
My boots blew out so I bought another at a great price.
They lasted 2 Caminos. Merrill’s. Great boot.
280 kilometers done between Porto Portugal and Santiago Spain. The Portuguese part was fantastic. Great coastal scenery, big huge rollers and surf worthy swells hit the rocky foreshore with great strength causing spray and massive blowholes. The onshore sea breezes were heaven sent in furnace like temperatures. And all of this under clear blue cloudless skies and an indigo blue sea.
The people of Portugal were super friendly, helpful and serving. The food was great and the beer even better. We had a great time.
Spain was a huge disappointment. People were very unfriendly and unhelpful. I had heard that the Spanish people were anti tourist and going out of their way to make it known that tourists were not welcome in their country even though the Pilgrims made up a good portion of the Galician economy. Santiago is becoming a commercial hub. I knew things were changing when they were charging for a credential stamp. Everything was at a price. And the crowds in Spain after Rodendella were unreal. Hundreds and hundreds of pilgrims walking in the same space. Things were staged – from the beggars at the Basilica to the mariachi band at the plaza and square. On every evening just like they were 3 years ago.
The picture doesn’t do the crowd numbers justice.
Thousands of pilgrims. Every single second of the day 100 euros is paid for a compestella. Do the math.
We had no rain for the whole time. Temperatures were in the mid 30s. One day it hit 38C. Too friggin hot. The cost of the Albergues have gone way up.
Majority of the Pilgrims were women. Young people as well. All looking for something whereas us old farts have found it and are trying to get rid of it.
Accommodations after Rodendella were scarce. Food has increased as has beer. If you are going to do this I would recommend October or April. Don’t believe the historical records. I have done 4 Caminos now in September and every one of them have been furnaces.
Everyone has a reason for doing a Camino. That is great. Remember though that it is just a walk. You can do the same at home. Gerry says that it is a great way to lose weight.
As for me? Would I do another?
NO?
Commercialization and social media has destroyed the Camino and the Camino spirit.
At least in my mind.
Thanks for following.
Tomorrow? The city of A Coruna. A real gem. Beautiful 😍 ❤️.
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