Day 5: Nevers

Today,s adventure is dedicated to all of the men and women at th BC Cancer Clinic. May their journeys be good and safe and successful.

Well never on a Sunday, a Sunday, a Sunday, da da da day dah. And yet here I am in Nevers France on a Sunday. I am sitting at my campsite, beside the Loire River, with the churchbells of the city singing their songs of praise. And here lies entomnbed in a shrine, the mortal remains of St Bernadette, a pilgrimage in itself. St Bernadette of Lourdes fame, so the Catholic story goes, was visited by the Virgin Mary 18 times in 1858. A shrine and grotto was built to commemorate that vision. True? False? Well it is a matter of faith.

Got here late last night. Campsite is okay but hot, dusty and no shade. A tad dirty. First thing I did was quaff down 2 Orannginas – the sweet nectar of nature when you are dying of thirst. Orangina is very tasty. I have developed a taste for it. Tasty – oh I already said that. Me mind is playing tricks with my train of tasty thoughts.

A note about Premery. I decided to take the bus in this heat. The nice lady at the tourist office gave me bad information. Sure there is a bus Monsieur.  Voici est le schedule. Deux euros. Sacre Blue,  I thought. That is cheap. So i go out to the bus arret, but voila – no bus. After 4 hours of waiting, no bus. It turns out there is no bus service in Premery. Schedules? Oui. Bus stops? Oui. But no busses. Non. Sacre Blue. Oh and mon Francais est meilleur chaque jour. Voilà. Reminded me of Monty Python,s sketch about the department of Silly Walks.

At the Premery camp site they had a game of boules, or bocci. My camping neighbour , a very old man, won the tournament they had and then gave me his medal. Nice. We talked in my shattered French and I showed him pics of my grandchild Ruby. He and his disabled wife smiled and patted me on the back. Belle, belle enfant. I looked at him, and his wife and coulfd see the real love betwwen them, holding hands and smiling at one another. Beautiful. I bade them goodbye and left in the 40 degree heat.

Got to the edge of town and stuck out my thumb. I decided not to walk the 10 miles to the next town. After about 2 hours, with my thumb getting tired, a nice young women stopped and gave me a lift. I was very tired. I thanked her and called her my angel. She then told me her name was Angelique. Beautiful. She was from Uzbekistan, living in France for 10 years,yet her French was no better than mine.

The short drive to Nevers was nice as the sun was setting in the west. Air was sweet and the sky a purplish, reddish shade of blue. Having the windows down with the warm yet refreshing wind blowing and swirling around me was heavenly. It reminded mre of my youth in the car with my dad, rolling down a country road, just the two of us with the windows rolled down, and my arm straight out into the warm summer,s evening breeze, trying to catch the wind, just the two of us, silent, peaceful in thought and mind. I lost my pop at a very young age.

La vie est bon, belle – no matter what.

 

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Day Three and Four

This is dedicated to Gary, my cousin,s husband from Toronto. He has been fighting cancer for a very long time.

I am a bit out of sync due to heat and poor wifi.

Stayed in Guipy over night sécond day. Beautiful. Owned by a Dutch couple. All of the campers were Dutch too,except moi and my new found friend Jean, a frenchman from France!! Great guy. Pläce had a pool, which was heaven. Sat outside for dinner – hot but with a breeze – heavenly. Unfortunately for me I was sitting beside an arrogant Dutchman who proceed to tell me how much he and much of Europe hate Trump and all Americans – sad. Oh well, if there is one commonality in this world it is this – assholes. He is the second one I have met so far on this trip. More to come I am sure. Hot, hot, hot

Oh yeah, the Dutch owner of the site tried to rip me off. I caught him out though. What a prick – oh how I love that word. Funny that the only real jerks I have come across so far have been Dutch. Sorry Marijke. But then again they are all from the north in Holland, not the south where my dear wife was born and raised

Day Three  – Guipy to Pemery.

Started at 6am. Cool. Most of this trip was beside paved roads. Not good in this heat. Met my Belgian friend, a pilgrim, in St Sauverien, a village at the top of a large hill. Of course! Most of the villages I have come across are at the top of a large hill-of course they are. That was about 7 km out.  Nothing open. Not a single store, cafe, had been open in any of the villages. My neighbour Gord told me that this area of France was exceptional for its cuisine. That may be true but I haven,t been able to find out as every friggin cafe, magazin, HAS BEEN FRIGGIN CLOSED. Maybe in Premery I will find something open. My friend Jean told me this is due to poor economics. Villagers have given up, so have closed shop and moved away. Most Frenchmen from France prefer their holidays abroad. That is sad because this region is heaven on earth – heavenly!

Then it got hot,really really hot. It became a walk of surviving. Not enjoyable at all. No profound thought at all unless of course falling into Niagara Falls was profound. Ah that cool fresh torrent of water cascading over the furnace that encased my very being! So nice. I had to settle jumping into a stream and immersing myself into its coolness. Aw,the small things in life we take for granted. Same with fruit. I had been saving an orange for a very special break. With 7 km to go it was now time for this heavenly treat – every segment was  sweet nector of the Gods. So, so refreshing.

Under this grouling heat, the countryside was parched for moisture. Hills and valleys screaming for rain and none forthcoming for sometime. Longest heatwave on record – of course it is – come to France they said.

Last two km took me 2 hours. Finally made it to Premery. Hard to describe this place as I am too tired. Found a bistro open – hooray – went in and quaffed two Oranginas, a large carafe of ice water and a great fruit salad. I felt nauseous and could hardly eat the salad but I got through it. Found my campsite and collapsed. Site has a swimming pond, so I immersed myself after a short nap – heavenly.

By the way. It hit 42 C in this region. I have to change my tactics. Walking in a furnace is too dangerous, pilgrim or not, I am not ready to meet my creator as yet.

Day 4: This day is dedicated to my nephew Gerry, a Cancersurvivor.

Premer to Guigney. Decided to stay in Premery and recharge. Too hot to walk so autobus to my next destination it is. Not good I know but that is why God invented the internal combustion engine. He felt sorry for pilgrims. He looked down and said – enough is enough – the car was born and he was happy. My first profound thought I think.

ICampsite is good, not great but good. No extras here. Funny but I have been getting along with everyone – even with my shattered French. People everywhere are nice – especially in the country. No ANTIFA, no BLM, no Pride, no politics – just peaceful contemplation. Hey my second profundity. Besides, it is too hot. Even the fish know that. Kids are in the pond having a great time in this heat. Same with me as I really am a kid at heart. A few pics coming. Tomorrow: Nevers – where St Bernadette de Soubirous (suburu) is entombed. More on that later.

 

Day Two and a Bit

This day is dedicated to my brother Kevin, who is suffering from Cancer on his tongue. Just at the start of his journey.

By the way, this Ipad with its auto correct sucks. Hit a “t” and you get a “b.” Hit an “a” and you get a “r.”What should only take a few minutes takes an hour. SUCKS bigly.

Let me tell you about some of the people I have met already: there is Gil, the anorexic pilgrim, Hans, the arrogant Dutch pilgrim. I asked him how his walk was going only to hear him say: it,s in the heart man, the heart. It has nothing to do with “how it,s going” but everything to do with your state of mind man”.  Okay ass-hole I thought to myself. I have not heard that kind of talk since the 1960,s summer of love…..MAN. Then there is Robert and Pierre, there is always a Pierre isn,t there. In France I mean. Robert was a 

know it all but very helpful really. Two dutch girls from Maastricht entetained us with thier violin and guitar. We went through all of the koom-by-ah stuff. But cohen,s halleluah was a hit.

Even I sang-bass. A magical evening especially when sitting beside an Abby that is over 900 years old. Spine tingling .

Just before I arrived at my first rest area I had to climb up a steep hill that went up for about a kilometer at a 30 degree incline.  This after walking 24 kilometers. God treats pilgrims in mysterious ways I think.  I finally arrived at the hostel, and fell  on the cool tiled floor for about 30 minutes I think. All I wanted was a shower but the host dutch lady wouldnt let me have  one until I listened to her introdution – Dutch torture.

It,s amazing what goes through your mind when walking. You are only in the present-no past, no future, except for the next hill or valley. And in this heat? Hard. There was one moment when all I could think about was an ice cold pilsener. And what was really weird was I kept thinking I would come back in another life as a pint of ice cold pilsener. At the very least I thought I could give someone good company for a half hour so. Weird I know but that is what goes through your mind when your brains are being fried in 30 plus degrees heat.

Another magical evening. Pictures speak for themselves if I could only get this Ipad to work. It sucks. I am quitting for today. What should only take me 30 minutes to do takes almost 2 hours to do with this Ipad. I will correct later. Sorry for the typos:

 

 

 

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Day One: Vezelay to Le Chemin

This day is dedicated to my wife Marijke, who passed December 2017.

On the road by 630 am. Left Vezelay and started walking. Started raining so put on my poncho which ripped apart. Not a good start. Stopped raining but left a humidity that was through the roof. Hot as hell too.

I almost came down with heat stroke but for the generosity of a cafe owner who opened his shop to let me cool off. He gave me cold water and food as well. I recovered and pressed on. A few hours later I  was again short on water so I went to a house, knocked on the door and two old women, sisters I think, let me in to their modest home, gave me water, two beautiful ripe tomatoes and a bag of plums. Great, and that was the way it has been.

Vezelay? How to describe it. Well, how does one describe perfection! Vezelay is an Abby town situated in the Morvan Bourgogne region of France. Absoultely beautiful. The Abby is at the top of a hill that overlooks unbelievable countryside. As if god is right at home watching his flock.  It really is a stairway to heaven. The surrounding landscape is picture perfect, as if sculpted by heaven itself. Every shade of green can be seen on the hills and the valleys. The hills undulate in perfect harmony with the   environment. You see meadows and forests, separated by plowed fields that emit a shade of gold, amber, and even bonze. Dazzling colours. Now this may not be Canada, with its wild scenery, robust lnadscape and raging rivers. Nevertheless this  countryside is no less  spectacular but in a more peaceful sculpted sense. Add to that culture, history and hospitaliy and you have a heavenly recipe. Why would anyone go the Paris when they van visit a regiion like this in France is beyond comprehension. More to come. I can’t wait until tomorrow.

 

 

Au Revoir Netherlands

River Mass, Maastricht

Beautiful Netherlands and all the friends and family of my dear wife Marijke.

The dutch language is very difficult to learn. Try to imagine having a frog in your throat 24/7 and that will give you an idea of how difficult it is to speak Dutch. Much like trying to type on this IPpad. There have been many times when I have wanted to throw this Ipad into the River Maas.

They also have a funny way with words. Take the word Liuk,pronounced “look.” Now I say “look” but the Dutch pronounce it like “Luke”as in the apostle Luke. And that my friends is the Gospel truth. It is also how they call the Belgian, or Belgique, city of Liege. A city at the northern edge of the Ardennes that got literally creamed like a Belgian waffle during the first world war. And “Luke” is also a Dutch word meaning “oooooh,so cute”when describing a something sweet like a cuddly baby or a babbling brook, well maybe not like a babbling brook. But you can see how someone like me can get confused. Although English has its own problems as in nit or knit, but I digress.

So when I am describing Liege,I am not sure if they are looking at me stupid like or think I am a religious zealot of referring to a small child, when all I want to know is how far it is to Liege.

“Oh look”they said.

“ No liege”I said.

”Oh Look” they said.

”Where”I said

“No look,over there” they said.

“Eee gads” I said “So how do I get to Liege?

“Who’s on first?” I thought

Why oh why can’t all people speak the same language?

I mean sitting on an open terrace sipping coffee is a European pastime. So why can’t everyone speak:

“L’espreseronto!”  Groan!

And thats the way it was for 2.5 weeks.

And 32-38 Celcius, 250 % humidity so it felt like the surface of the sun.

Off to France

This Ipda isdrtibniung me cfrdazy. It hasd a spelling minbdof iitsd opwn.. I